Angela Wolf Sew-A-Long: Chic Cashmere Trench Coat Part 1

February 10, 2020By Angela WolfProjects, Sew-A-Long, Tutorial 37 Comments Opinion by Paid Consultant

I have made quite a few trench coats, but one of the ultimate luxurious coats for a winter in Michigan is one made with cashmere fabric! Actually, I will carry this jacket for travel because it doesn’t wrinkle, and it will look great with just about anything. I have split this cashmere coat blog into 4 parts and each part should relate to any jacket pattern that you use, at least I hope you will get a few tips.

To get started I will be using my Chloe Trench Pattern, but feel free to use any jacket or coat pattern you choose. The tutorials included will consist of photos and my episodes on ‘It’s Sew Easy TV’ to guide you along. Be sure to leave a comment below if you have any questions as you get sewing.

Supplies:

  • Coat or Trench Pattern: I am using my Chloe Trench Pattern (if you need this pattern, get a discount with coupon code: BROTHER10)
  • Fabric: Cashmere, Wool, or whatever fits your weather 😊
  • Interfacing: Either use an underlining or a quality tailoring fusible Interfacing
  • Belt with Rivets or D-Rings – Follow your pattern for details
  • Thread
  • Tailors Chalk for marking
  • 80/12 Universal Needle

Machines:

Pre-Shrink the Fabric:

When sewing with cashmere or wool, it’s very important to pre-shrink your fabric. You can do this by steam pressing the fabric with your iron (hold the iron just above the fabric and press the steam button) or you can bring the fabric to the dry cleaners. It really depends on how you want to care for your garment – however you want to care for your garment, do the same in pre-shrinking. If you are lining the jacket, do the same with the lining.

Cutting the Fabric

Cashmere fabric has a nap. Just run your hand up and down the fabric, you will feel the fibers and notice the difference. Choose a direction for your pattern layout. I typically choose the fibers facing down, but you are the designer.

Layout all your pattern pieces facing the same direction.

Interfacing

There are different suggestions in regard to interfacing cashmere fabric. You have a choice in using an underlining and attaching the interfacing to the underlining. I chose to use a quality fusible interfacing specific for tailoring. Please feel free to ask questions as to your interfacing choices.

Lining

My Chloe Trench pattern does not include lining, but you can add lining by cutting the side front, back and sleeve pattern pieces. Just shorten the hem by 1” for the lining pattern.

Finish the Edges

Depending on the fabric content, the fabric might tend to fray. Run the edges through the serger with a 3-thread overlock stitch or if you not lining the fabric, check out my episode of ‘It’s Sew Easy’ below in adding bias tape to the seam.

Let’s Get Sewing!

Tips for sewing cashmere:

  • Needle: 80/12 Universal Needle
  • Stitch Length: 2.5 – 3.0 depending on the thickness of your fabric
  • Press: Use a press cloth or iron shoe to prevent damaging the fabric

Start by prepping the back flap on the trench coat (follow your pattern directions). After sewing and pressing, Topstitch the outer edge as shown. I prefer to use the Triple Stretch Stitch set to a 3.5 stitch length.

Line up the back flap to the upper back of the jacket and baste in place.

Sew the side seams and press the seams open. If you want a little help sewing a straight seam, try using the laser light option:

Check out these episodes of ‘It’s Sew Easy’ for more details on sewing a trench.

This should get you started on your cashmere coat. Have fun! And just in case, here is the Angela Wolf Sew-A-Long Chic Cashmere Trench Coat Part 1.pdf

I hope you are sewing a jacket with us! Be sure to share your photos on social (I can’t wait to see your jackets!) and leave a comment below to let me know if you are sewing along or have any questions. If you share photos include #brothersews and #angelawolf so we can follow along.

Cheers,

Angela

angelas-sig

37 Comments

  • I’m so looking forward to making my Chloe coat! It’s really hard to find the right purple or lavender material l want in my rural area. Still looking. Thanks Angela

  • I love this jacket! It is a jacket that you can wear as casual or dress-up. I have started on mine and it is not difficult to sew. There is a lot of detail work which makes it sew special! Thank you, Angela, for this pattern and all of your instruction and tutorials on making this.

  • Your cashmere Chloe Trench is magnificent. Your tutorials, sew alongs, Q&A’s, and photos are inspiring and extremely helpful. I always get lot so information from you! Thank you for all your hard work.

  • Thanks Angela for the blog post. I made my Chloe out of fleece. I will be making another one that has lining in it. Decisions, Decisions on what type of fabric to use.

  • For the lining: why do you not cut the front piece? How do you attach the lining to the coat? Thank you so much! I have no idea where you find the time! Ann

    • Hi Ann, I cut the side front and back – the facing for my pattern is the same as the Center front pattern piece.
      Hope that helps,
      Angela

  • For the lining: why do you not cut a front piece? How do you attach the lining to the coat? Thank you so much! Love your patterns! Where do you find the time?!

  • I am in the process of finishing my muslin and am getting very excited to begin the process with my “real” fabric. I was not going to completely finish my muslin but there are so many areas of finishing that I have never done before so I am going to completely finish it. Your guidance through this project has driven me to make it to the finish line. I just love your teaching style. Thanks so much!

  • Angela, I am working on my Chloe and am figuring out how to put a hidden pocket on the inside of the coat. For travel. Have it almost ready to go in. I am putting it between the front facing and the lining sort of on a slant. It will be nice to have for a passport or whatever when I go to England. ThisPDF came at a perfect time for me.
    Thanks.
    Genny

  • OMG!! I am so excited to have run across this blog. I am getting ready to start making a winter coat for MI. Next winter, not this current one. I haven’t sewn clothes in more years than I care to count. I’m going to make a simple pair of pjs before I start on the coat just to remind myself how to sew clothes.

    This blog has so many good tips for working with wool. I intend to read all 4 parts at least twice before I actually start on my coat.

  • Where did you purchase your cashmere fabric? I need to buy online as no quality fabric stores are near me.

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