I have made quite a few trench coats, but one of the ultimate luxurious coats for a winter in Michigan is one made with cashmere fabric! Actually, I will carry this jacket for travel because it doesn’t wrinkle, and it will look great with just about anything. I have split this cashmere coat blog into 4 parts and each part should relate to any jacket pattern that you use, at least I hope you will get a few tips.
To get started I will be using my Chloe Trench Pattern, but feel free to use any jacket or coat pattern you choose. The tutorials included will consist of photos and my episodes on ‘It’s Sew Easy TV’ to guide you along. Be sure to leave a comment below if you have any questions as you get sewing.
- Coat or Trench Pattern: I am using my Chloe Trench Pattern (if you need this pattern, get a discount with coupon code: BROTHER10)
- Fabric: Cashmere, Wool, or whatever fits your weather 😊
- Interfacing: Either use an underlining or a quality tailoring fusible Interfacing
- Belt with Rivets or D-Rings – Follow your pattern for details
- Tailors Chalk for marking
- 80/12 Universal Needle
- I am using the Brother Stellaire Innov-ís XJ1 and the 5234PRW Serger
Pre-Shrink the Fabric:
When sewing with cashmere or wool, it’s very important to pre-shrink your fabric. You can do this by steam pressing the fabric with your iron (hold the iron just above the fabric and press the steam button) or you can bring the fabric to the dry cleaners. It really depends on how you want to care for your garment – however you want to care for your garment, do the same in pre-shrinking. If you are lining the jacket, do the same with the lining.
Cutting the Fabric
Cashmere fabric has a nap. Just run your hand up and down the fabric, you will feel the fibers and notice the difference. Choose a direction for your pattern layout. I typically choose the fibers facing down, but you are the designer.
Layout all your pattern pieces facing the same direction.
There are different suggestions in regard to interfacing cashmere fabric. You have a choice in using an underlining and attaching the interfacing to the underlining. I chose to use a quality fusible interfacing specific for tailoring. Please feel free to ask questions as to your interfacing choices.
My Chloe Trench pattern does not include lining, but you can add lining by cutting the side front, back and sleeve pattern pieces. Just shorten the hem by 1” for the lining pattern.
Finish the Edges
Depending on the fabric content, the fabric might tend to fray. Run the edges through the serger with a 3-thread overlock stitch or if you not lining the fabric, check out my episode of ‘It’s Sew Easy’ below in adding bias tape to the seam.
Let’s Get Sewing!
Tips for sewing cashmere:
- Needle: 80/12 Universal Needle
- Stitch Length: 2.5 – 3.0 depending on the thickness of your fabric
- Press: Use a press cloth or iron shoe to prevent damaging the fabric
Start by prepping the back flap on the trench coat (follow your pattern directions). After sewing and pressing, Topstitch the outer edge as shown. I prefer to use the Triple Stretch Stitch set to a 3.5 stitch length.
Line up the back flap to the upper back of the jacket and baste in place.
Sew the side seams and press the seams open. If you want a little help sewing a straight seam, try using the laser light option:
Check out these episodes of ‘It’s Sew Easy’ for more details on sewing a trench.
This should get you started on your cashmere coat. Have fun! And just in case, here is the Angela Wolf Sew-A-Long Chic Cashmere Trench Coat Part 1.pdf
I hope you are sewing a jacket with us! Be sure to share your photos on social (I can’t wait to see your jackets!) and leave a comment below to let me know if you are sewing along or have any questions. If you share photos include #brothersews and #angelawolf so we can follow along.