Part 4: How to Attach the Collar and Facing, plus Topstitching, & Hemming
On to the final stretch in sewing my cashmere trench coat. The jackets you have been sharing on social are beautiful! I can hardly wait to wear mine 😊
Sewing the Collar
It is typical to cut the under collar on the bias and upper collar on the straight of grain. I added topstitching to the center back seam to keep the seam allowance in place and add a designer touch. I choose the Triple Stitch set to a stitch length of 4.0.
After sewing the Upper Collar to the Under Collar with right sides together, press the seam allowance open. I do the same thing after sewing the Front Facing to the Jacket Front.
Turn the collar right side out and give it another pressing. While pressing the collar, push the seam toward the under collar. I am using my tailor’s clapper for a nice crease.
Attach the collar to the jacket. If you are lining the jacket, sew the lining together and then attach the lining to the front facing. Now attach the facing to the jacket and press.
Now to my favorite part … TOPSTITCHING! I am again using the Triple Stitch with a stitch length of 4.0.
Tip: When stitching around the corners and different thicknesses of fabric, press in the black button on the J-foot.
As soon as the J-foot levels out, the black button will automatically pop back out.
Stitching around the collar, the yellow line below shows the stitching path.
The last step is hemming. Catch my episode of It’s Sew Easy tv for a tutorial on hemming and additional tips for topstitching!
And the cashmere trench is finished! I hope some of these tips have helped you out on your jacket and next sewing projects. Thanks so much for sharing photos of your trench on social using #AngelaWolf and #BrotherSews – it’s inspiring to see all the creativity!
Now, what should we sew next?