Quick Tip – Super Stitch for Knits

July 16, 2020By Joanne BankoCover Stitch, Garment, Quick Tip, Sewing 10 Comments Opinion by Paid Consultant

This overcasting stitch is ideal for sewing seams in light to medium weight knits. It sews the seam and overcasts all in one step, all while maintaining a bulk free seam. I’ve even used this for sewing bathing suit seams. You’ll find this style of overcasting stitch on many Brother machine models. The stitch is formed with two straight stitches along the seam line, followed by a slanted stitch from left to right. See Figure #1.

Overcasting Stitch
Figure #1

Here are some quick tips for sewing this stitch two different ways:

In sample one shown in Figure #2 below, I sewed the seam right along the 5/8-inch seam line. I used SA538,the Brother seam guide accessory to guide the raw edge of the fabric and keep my seam allowance consistent.

Seam Guide
Figure #2

I also used the Left/Right shift feature on the Luminaire to move the stitch over slightly to the left so I could follow the 5/8-inch line on the throat plate. You’ll find this shift feature handy if you have ever wished you could move the stitch one way or another instead of having to move your fabric. There are limitations for movement since many stitches take up a larger portion of the open throat plate, but as long as the stitch is less than 7mm wide you have room to adjust slightly to the left or right. See Figure #3.

Stitch Setting
Figure #3

 Since I used a 5/8-inch seam allowance the next step was to trim the excess seam allowance close to the stitches. See Figure #4.

Trim Fabric
Figure #4

This first method works well when you have a 5/8-inch seam and you don’t want to pre-trim the seam allowance. It works particularly well when you have a knit that is thin or slippery and you want the seam to lay very flat when finished. See Figure #5 for an example of how this looks from the right side.

Stitch Side View
Figure #5

On the second example, I sewed the seam to finish at ¼-inch, using it on a swimsuit fabric. For this seam you’ll want to sew so that the right-hand swing of the needle falls just to the right of the raw edge, and the straight stiches form directly on the seamline. Many swimsuit patterns have a ¼-inch seam allowance as the default on the pattern. For a ¼-inch seam I changed the settings to 7.0mm for the width. In addition, changing to 3.0mm for the length makes it a more open, less dense stitch.

If your Brother machine has a guideline marker feature like the Luminaire XP1 used here, you can set the laser along the outside edge of the stitch and use it as a guide so that the overcasting forms just off the raw edge. See Figure #6a and Figure #6b.

Set laser as guide
Figure #6a
Overcasting
Figure #6b

This makes a nice, neat seam for swimwear. It’s super stretchy so it’s ideal for the four-way stretch of swimsuit fabric. See Figure #7a and Figure #7b.

Final Product
Figure #7a
Final Product Front
Figure #7b

If you’re interested in more ideas for sewing seams on swimwear, I invite you to watch It’s Sew Easy TV episode 1109-1. In this the Brother sponsored show I demonstrated a variety of techniques for sewing swimwear. You can watch the video below from my YouTube channel. Enjoy!

https://youtu.be/yD1x-eOyRlo

CLICK HERE FOR PDF!

10 Comments

  • Excellent post – I have a more basic brother machine and I have to see if it has this stitch! And THANK YOU for including the swimwear show link- EXCELLENT advice on swimwear and you have motivated me to see if I can tackle a swimsuit before the end of the summer!

    • Hi Juanita!
      Glad you liked this post. I’ve been using this stitch for a long time and it is ideal for swimwear. I hope you get a chance to make a swimsuit this season. Please share your results if you do 🙂 I’m here for you if you need any more help getting it tackled.

    • Hello Jacquelyn!
      Thanks for taking the time to leave a comment! We love helping you have a happy sewing life 🙂

    • Thanks for your kind note Clovis! I think you’ll find some good uses for this stitch once you try it out. Happy Sewing!

    • Yes Sandra, there sure is! It’s called the side cutter attachment, accessory SA177 for 7mm machines. Used with specific stitches, it allows you to cut away excess seam allowance as the stitch forms on the raw edge, mimicing a serger style stitch. I plan to do a tutoiral on this attachment in the near future so stay tuned.

  • Hi Joanne. I’m glad that you are feeling better. I recently upgraded to a Stellaire and a “dual fit feed” attachment was included. I have a walking foot, but this is so much larger. The manual states that it is used for slippery fabrics, but I am wondering what are it’s other uses. I have faux shearling fabric and a jacket pattern. Would I use the dual fit it the walking foot for this project? Thanks for being an excellent teacher. I enjoy watching “It’s See Easy” and @Brother Sees videos as well as your book.

    • Hi Susan!
      Thanks for your kindness and concern! I appreciate your thoughtfulness.

      Well now, you are a fortunate lady to have added the Stellaire to your sewing space 🙂 I could write a really lengthy answer to your question about the Dual Feed Accessory. To get you started, let me point you to a series of Accessory Spotlight posts I wrote on this attachment. You’ll find them here on the Brother Stitching Sewcial blog. Simply type “dual feed foot” in the search box in the upper right corner of this page. Here are a few additional notes for you: The reason it is so much larger than the walking foot is because it actually has a digitally controlled motor inside. While it does not replace the walking foot, (there’s a time and a place for both of these dual feed style attachments), it does provide many opportunities for extra control with tricky sewing situations, especially for layers that want to fight against one another. I haven’t had the chance to try it on faux shearling so I would suggest doing a test. If it allows you to sew smooth seams on the shearling, and helps keep your layers from shifting, then by all means use it. If you have any more questions, please feel free to reach out. I’d love to be able to help you use this foot to the fullest! Happy Sewing my friend!

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